Portofino
Quick Facts
Language: ItalianCurrency: Euro
Area Codes: 0185
Other Cities in this Region
Portofino is the destination of choice for many of Europe's wealthiest tourists. Yachts are as common as cars, and pretty little villas have been built into the hills. The locals thumb their noses at the tourists who invade this sleepy Italian Riviera town every day, all the while earning their livelihood off the very same people whom they claim to despise. There is very little business in Portofino outside of tourism.
Portofino belonged to the Romans before being overtaken by the Republic of Genoa in 1229. Subsequently, the French, English, and Spanish controlled the town, before Portofino finally returned to Italian rule. The British are particularly taken with Portofino, as it has been a favorite destination for English travelers since the 19th Century.
Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton came here after their big budget film Cleopatra flopped, in part to replenish their battered self-images and reaffirm their movie-star status. The Splendido Hotel, generally recognized as one of the finer hotels in all of Europe, overlooks Portofino's harbor. Hemingway, Garbo, Gable, and Onassis are just some of the names that have graced the hotel's guest list.
The instructions for a typical day in Portofino are simple. Start with a lazy stroll along the waterfront, followed by a nice lunch. If you have the energy, you might take a nature hike, but only after making reservations for dinner at one of the city's chic dining spots. Breeze in for dinner, and have some gelato for dessert. Repeat every day forever, if you can afford it.
Docking & Local Transportation
Cruise ships dock at the Port of Portofino, just minutes away from Genoa. There is easy road access to the rest of the small community of Portofino, and to Genoa.
Buses leave every twenty minutes to and from Santa Margherita Ligure. But Portofino is such a small town, you should have no trouble getting around on foot.
Local Interests
The tourist office (Via Roma 35, 0185/269-024) sells maps and brochures, and the staff there is more than helpful in planning your itinerary. Then again, your itinerary in Portofino won't be all that hectic. After all, there isn't too much to do here, and most of the activity in town centers around relaxation.
Portofino is a great town for a walking tour. Heading towards the tip of the Portofino peninsula, you will come across the main attraction in town, the Castello di San Giorgio, an old castle built during the Middle Ages. The castle is well taken care of here, and you will enjoy a charming stroll through finely manicured gardens and panoramic views of the harbor. The church of San Giorgio is another great spot for viewing the bay. The small church was destroyed and rebuilt four times during World War II, and the church supposedly contains the relics of St. George. The city continues to celebrate St. George's Day, which falls on April 23. The Faro, or lighthouse, is another popular spot in Portofino.
There are great hiking routes that lead into and out of Portofino. You will need to set aside a full day, but one beautiful route takes you from Monte Portofino, the mountain that overlooks the town, to the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso. The hike takes about five hours roundtrip. If this sounds like too much work, you can take a one hour hike from Portofino to Cappella delle Gave. The tourist office sells hiking maps, and does a great job of providing directions to get you on your way.
Activities
Beaches
Paraggi is between Portofino and Santa Margherita. It is one of the few sand beaches around this part of the Italian Riviera, with most of the other beaches suffering from sharp rocks along the coastline.
Shopping
Portofino does not have much of a shopping scene, with the locals generally thumbing their nose at you with haughty help and premium prices. There are small boutiques along the harbor, but for the most part you won't find anything here that you couldn't find in any other Italian city. And because Portofino is such an affluent town, the prices here are inflated, especially in comparison to neighboring Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo. If you find yourself near the Hotel Piccolo Portofino (Via Duca Degli Abruzzi 31, 0185/269-015) or the Hotel Eden (Via Dritto 18, 0185/269-091), stop by their fabulous gift shops for expensive souvenirs and gifts.
Dining & Nightlife
Portofino is a playground for the rich, and that philosophy is reflected in the prices of food and drink here. Reservations are hard to get, and expect to pay a bit of a premium, but the food will be well worth it. For starters, try to get a table at the ultra-exclusive Ristorante Puny (Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta 5, 0185/269-037). If you manage to secure a reservation, consider yourself lucky, because the food here is among the best in town. Any pesto dish will not disappoint, nor will the seafood selection. Il Pitosforo (Molo Umberto I 9, 0185/269-020) is another restaurant with a highly selective and exclusive reservation policy. The menu is pricey, but the seafood pasta is delicious. Delfino (Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta 41, 0185/269-081) offers a menu similar to the others, so definitely gravitate towards the seafood pasta. La Terrazza (16 Salita Baratta, 0185/267-801), in the Hotel Splendido, focuses on local favorites, using ingredients found only in Portofino. Remember, being seen at any of the above restaurants connotes a certain social status, which can't be measured in dollars or euros.
Portofino's nightlife revolves around two small bars that constantly compete with one another for business. It's kind of like the Hatfields and McCoys. La Gritta American Bar (Calata Marconi 20, 0185/269-126) is just a few stores away from Scafandro American Bar (Calata Marconi 10, 0185/269-105). Both bars are full of drunken revelers who sometimes travel between the two on any given night, but the atmosphere at both is light and upbeat.