Monte Carlo

Monaco is something of an anomaly in today's democratic world. Monarchies worldwide have either dissolved completely or they have seen their once absolute power reduced to ceremonial titles. But the Principality of Monaco presses on, with the Grimaldi Dynasty having been in control of these 486 acres since 1297. Although France did manage to annex Monaco in the late 1700s, the Grimaldi family recovered rule in 1814.

Prince Rainier III is the current ruler of Monaco. His marriage to famous actress Grace Kelly in 1956 was a worldwide event, and elevated Monaco to a sort of fantasyland, with storybook romances and a jolly ruler. Princess Grace had three children, Princess Caroline, Prince Albert, and Princess Stephanie. Grace died tragically in a car accident in 1982, and the mere mention of the accident still conjures up painful memories for locals.

Of particular concern to the people of Monaco is the bachelor status of Prince Albert. A treaty signed almost one hundred years ago states that Monaco would become a territory under French protection if the ruling family were to run out of heirs. Albert is still not married, which has the locals a little nervous.

Almost all of the country's economy is centered around gambling and tourism. Not surprisingly, the economy is doing fine. Mercedes and BMW's are common here, and the public transportation system is flush with electronic displays keeping track of the buses and trains. Even the train station in Monte Carlo would pass as a tourist attraction in some places. There is no income tax in Monaco, which has made the Principality the chosen home of many of the world's wealthiest people.

Docking & Local Transportation

Cruise ships dock at Direction des Ports de Monaco, in Monte Carlo. The city center is less than a mile away

Opulence drips from every corner in Monaco. BMW and Mercedes taxis shuttle you from sight to sight. Air-conditioned buses transport immaculately dressed children back home from school. Each bus stop has an electronic display telling you exactly how long you have to wait until the next bus comes, and they are always on time.

Local Interests

Many visitors will never want to leave the casinos, but there are plenty of other attractions in Monte Carlo. The tourist office (2A Boulevard des Moulins, 377/9216-6116) will be happy to point you in the right direction, with maps, brochures, and suggested itineraries. Prince Rainier has put his collection of rare automobiles on display at the Collection des Voitures Anciennes de SAS le Prince de Monaco (Les Terrasses de Fontvieille, 377/9205-2856). Among the rare beauties are a 1956 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud and a 1986 Lamborghini Countach.

Definitely do your best to visit the royal palace, Les Grands Appartements du Palais (Place du Palais, 377/9325-1831). Tours are conducted four times an hour in four different languages. On the tour, you'll see room after room of gorgeous paintings, mirrors, and tapestries. Don't miss the changing of the guard, which takes place outside of the palace every day at 11:55 AM sharp.

The Musée National de Monaco (17 Avenue Princesse-Grace, 377/9330-9126) is notable for the world's most extensive collection of dolls and toys. Some of the elaborate dolls date back over two hundred years. The Musée de l'Oceanographie (Avenue St-Martin, 377/9315-3600) was founded by Prince Albert. Albert loved the sea, traveling around the world for thirty years and collecting all manner of rare specimens. The Jardin Exotique (62 Boulevard du Jardin-Exotique, 377/9315-2980) sits on top of a hill overlooking the entire Principality and the Mediterranean Sea. The garden itself is fairly unspectacular, unless you are a cactus lover. The real highlight of the garden is an underground cave, filled with spectacular stalactites and stalagmites. The Musée d'Anthropologie Préhistorique (377/9315-8006) is on the grounds of the Jardin Exotique, with exhibits on prehistoric man and beast.

Activities

Beaches

Monte Carlo has more than enough beautiful beaches. The principality is so healthy financially that the sand itself is replenished every so often. The best public beach is Plage de Larvotto. This beach is usually pretty packed during the busy summer months. But to hobnob with Monte Carlo's finest, you'll need to shell out some francs to enter the Monte Carlo Beach Club, which technically is on French soil. There are two pools, cabanas, and plenty of dining options. As is the case with most of the Riviera, topless bathing is the rule, but nudity is not allowed.

Casinos

You had better be a big spender if you plan on spending a lot of time in Monte Carlo's casinos. The Monte Carlo Casino (Place du Casino, 377/9296-2020, www.casino-monte-carlo.com) is famous the world over. To get in, you must have proof that you are over twenty-one (preferably a passport), and you must be wearing proper attire. This means no shorts or T-shirts, and no tennis shoes. If you plan on going into the more exclusive private rooms, men should wear sports coats and ties. The casino is divided into sections. The Salle Americaine opens at noon. This room only has slot machines. By 4 PM, the casino is humming with activity, as the roulette, craps, blackjack, and chemin-de-fer tables are filled with people losing their money and loving it. There is an admissions fee to get into the private rooms, but the Salle Americaine is free.

Shopping

Like everything else in Monte Carlo, it will cost you a pretty penny if you want to catch up on your shopping here. Nevertheless, there are rows of beautiful shops lining the area around the Monte Carlo Casino and the adjacent Hôtel de Paris. The Boutique du Rocher (1 Avenue de la Madone, 377/9330-9117) is one of the finer boutiques in all of Monaco, as is the world-renowned Hermès (11-15 Avenue de Monte Carlo, 377/9350-6489). You won't want to miss the Christian Dior Boutique (Avenue des Beaux-Arts, 377/9350-7978). Rue Grimaldi is the place to go if you want to pay like a pauper but dress like a princess.

Dining & Nightlife

The place to begin when thinking about dinner is the area around the Monte Carlo Casino. Across the plaza from the casino is Le Café de Paris (Place du Casino, 377/9216-2020). You should definitely make reservations before dining, as the place fills up nightly. Once seated, enjoy fine French cuisine and wine. At the Hôtel de Paris, enjoy elegant upscale dining at Le Louis XV (Place du Casino, 377/9216-2976). Gentlemen must look the part here, with jackets and ties a requirement. La Coupole (1 Avenue Princesse Grace, 377/9216-6565) in the Hotel Mirabeau is another fine dining alternative.

The Monte Carlo Casino actually has a whole wing devoted to non-gaming pursuits. The Cabaret and the Opera de Monte Carlo are great places to catch a show. For ticket information, contact Atrium du Casino (377/9216-2299). The bar in the Hôtel de Paris (Place du Casino, 377/9806-2225) is always full of finely dressed ladies and gentlemen. If you're looking for some dancing, you'll find it at Le Symbole (7 Rue du Portier, 377/9325-0925).