Messina
Quick Facts
Language: ItalianCurrency: Euro
Area Codes: 090
Other Cities in this Region
Messina is an unfortunate city on the northwest corner of Sicily. Actually, unfortunate doesn't begin to describe Messina's miserable luck. The invading Carthaginians destroyed the city over two thousand years ago. The city was rebuilt and became a powerful port for Crusaders to stop in on their way to the Holy Land. Richard the Lion-Hearted himself stopped in here to gather his courage. But the good times stopped abruptly. In the 14th Century, a ship stopped in Messina carrying the black plague, ravaging the entire town. Devastating earthquakes leveled the town in 1894 and 1908, the second one destroying practically everything in sight. Two-thirds of Messina's population of 120,000 died from the 1908 quake. As a result, Messina's architecture stands apart from the rest of Italy's. Every building is short so that it won't topple if another earthquake hits.
Today, Messina struggles because it lacks that connection to the past that draws visitors to other Italian cities. The town tries to be tourist-friendly. In fact, the tourism office here is one of the best in all of Italy. However, smiling faces can only do so much, as most people who visit Sicily spend their time in Palermo or Taormina, using Messina only as a place to change trains and get a quick bite to eat.
Docking & Local Transportation
Cruise ships dock at the Autorita Portuale di Messina in Messina, on Sicily's northwest coast. There is easy access to the rest of the city from the port.
Trains travel twenty-six times a day from Messina to Taormina. In Messina itself, four bus companies run overlapping routes. They are all similar in quality, and they all stop at all major tourist attractions in Messina. Taxis (090/51-513, 090/650-5111) usually congregate near the Duomo. Ferries and hydrofoils travel to nearby Reggio.
Local Interests
Sadly, most travelers use Messina as more of a stopover point as opposed to a tourist destination. While it is the third largest city in Sicily, it has evolved into a place where people go on their way to more glamorous destinations, like nearby Taormina, or even to Sicily's capital, Palermo, which lies to the west.
Nevertheless, a day spent in Messina needn't be lost. Start off by visiting the Azienda Autonoma Per L'Incremento Turistico (Via Calabria 301, 090/674-236). The tourist office will provide you with tons of maps and lots of helpful information, in English no less.
A bus tour of Lage Grande and Capo Peloro provides the road-weary traveler with a slow-paced tour of Messina's better scenery. Catch bus #8 in front of the train station to travel through the outer edges of the city.
Regrettably, most of Messina's historical monuments and attractions have been lost due to the city's unlucky past. The Piazza del Duomo contains the Duomo and the nearby cathedral. The Duomo was built in the 12th Century, and it must be divine intervention that has kept it from toppling over. The clock tower is a nice attraction here, with its interpretation of man's continuing metamorphosis from humble beginnings to the noble beings that we are all striving to be.
The Fontana di Orione is another example of Messina's bad luck. The fountain was supposed to be constructed by the great Michelangelo, but he begged off for no apparent reason, sending a student of his, Angelo Montorsoli, to build it in his place. The lone art gallery in town is the Museo Regionale (Viale della Libertà 465, 090/361-292), which houses all of the artwork gathered from five smaller collections in the early 1800s.
Activities
Side Trip to Taormina
Messina pales in comparison to Taormina, Sicily's most beautiful resort town, located twenty-seven miles to the south. In Taormina, natural beauty and a festive climate surround you. One of Sicily's best beaches is located in Taormina. Lido Mazzaro is swamped during the busy summer season. To reach Lido Mazzaro, pick up a cable car just south of town from Via Pirandello. Don't fret if you miss one, as they run four times an hour. The beach itself is teeming with activity, with hotels, restaurants, bars, and water sports equipment available.
Festivals
Ferragosto Messinese is an annual festival that lasts for three days, from August 13th through August 15th. The festival is actually celebrated nationwide, and 150,000 pilgrims stretch Messina to its limits. Two oversized human effigies, one Arab and one Catholic, represent Sicily's diverse past. They are paraded through the city, along with a giant camel, in a ceremony called the Procession of the Giants. In June, a more muted festival, the Festa patronale della Madonna della Lettera, is celebrated in honor of the Virgin Mary.
Shopping
Messina's shopping scene leaves much to be desired. You are far better off in Taormina, where there is a wide selection of shops to choose from. However, if you absolutely have to shop in Messina, there is a nice selection of hand-crafted pottery at Ceramiche Artistiche Josa (Via Nazionale 104, tel. 0921/331-982).
Dining and Nightlife
Swordfish is Messina's prized fish, and the one most clamored for in local restaurants. It has been prepared in many different ways to keep up with local demand. If you are a swordfish lover, you will love Messina!
Osteria Etnea (Via Martino 38, tel. 090/672-960) has a fine selection of wine, not to mention a beautiful outdoor patio. Lo Scrigno (Via T. Cannizzaro 224, tel. 090/6503) offers an excellent risotto. Pizza e Coca (Via Battisti 45, tel. 090/673-669) serves up the specialty that it's named after ? pizza and Coke. It's fast food, but it's delicious. Alberto Sporting (Via Nazionale, tel. 090/321-009) has a great dessert menu. Lastly, Osteria del Campanile (Via Loggia dei Mercanti 9, tel. 090/711-418) has an ever-changing menu. What doesn't change is the excellent quality of the dishes served up here.
Nightlife in Messina is fairly nonexistent. The best way to pass an evening here is to enjoy the temperate climate outside of a nice restaurant. The above-mentioned Osteria Etnea (Via Martino 38, tel. 090/672-960) is one of your better options. Otherwise, an evening stroll through the quiet streets of Messina may just be your best bet.