Marseilles

Marseille is France's second largest city, but it often goes unnoticed and unvisited by travelers who choose to spend their time in France either in Paris or along the sunny beaches of St. Tropez, Cannes, and Nice. They are missing out on one of France's most diverse cities, both in terms of people and activities.

Marseille has a fascinating history. Founded by the Phoenicians in the sixth century BC, Marseille has long been one of the more important port cities in the world. During the Middle Ages, the city was a focal point of the Crusades, as access to Marseille's port was an important stop on the way to the Holy Land. During the reign of the French monarchy, its strategic importance was reemphasized as a military stronghold. Even today, Marseille's port is the second busiest in all of Europe, trailing only Rotterdam.

A famous local legend revolves around Les Trois Maries, or The Three Marys. St. Lazarus awoke the three saints, including Mary Magdalene, and brought them ashore in Marseille, in order to Christianize the area. More recently, an army of French volunteers from Marseille marched to Paris during the French Revolution. Their battle song, La Marseillaise, became the country's national anthem. (If you're having a problem remembering how it goes, think of the opening notes of the Beatles classic, All You Need Is Love.)

Today, Marseille faces the same problems as any growing city. Crime is an issue, as is racial tension between the native French population and the arriving North African immigrants. Twenty-five percent of the population in Marseille is of North African descent, and that number is growing. But the city has come to embrace its newfound diversity, and is eager to put its best foot forward to attract a piece of the ever-growing tourism industry.

Docking & Local Transportation

Cruise ships dock at the Port of Marseille. The airport is only twenty minutes away, and there is road access to the rest of the city.

Metro subway lines run underneath Marseille, providing an easy way to get around the city. Buses also do a fairly good job of getting you around. However, taxis are relatively inexpensive, and most of your sightseeing will be done in a concentrated area. Contact Marseille Taxi (04/9102-2020) for a cab.

Local Interests

Marseille's tourist office (4 La Canebière, 04/9113-8900) will get you started, with detailed maps and brochures, along with suggested itineraries. Marseille likes to promote its beautiful museums and ornate cathedrals, putting its most cultured foot forward. The Musee d'Historie de Marseille (Centre Bourse, 04/9190-4222) reminds visitors that Marseille is an old and historic town, with exhibits and artifacts recalling its days as the Greek city of Massalia. The Musee des Beaux-Arts (Place Bernex, 04/9114-5930) has a diverse collection of paintings, mostly by French artists. David and Rubens are two artists whose work deserves mention here. The Musee de la Marine (7 La Canebière, 04/9139-3333) highlights Marseille's days as a main shipping hub, a distinction it still holds today. Only Rotterdam can boast of a busier port than Marseille in all of Europe. The Musee du Vieux Marseille (Rue de la Prison, 04/9113-8900) concentrates on the city's more recent past and its connection to the surrounding area.

A visit to Marseille's cathedrals begins with the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, (Rue Fort-du-Sanctuaire, 04/9113-4080). A thirty-foot statue of the Virgin Mary rises above you. The view from the church is one of the highlights of Marseille, with the city and the sea spreading out below. The 18th Century Cathedrale de la Major (Place de la Major, 04/9190-5357) is a major landmark, measuring over 450 feet long. Alexandre Dumas fans will recall the Chateau d'If (04/9159-0230). It was here that Dumas' Edmond Dantes was imprisoned, before his daring escape and triumphant revenge as the Count of Monte Christo.

Activities

Beaches

Marseille's beaches are nowhere near the paradise of its Riviera neighbors to the east. St. Tropez, Cannes, and Nice all have better beaches, but Marseille has some nice beach areas. The area around Parc Balneaire du Prado is your best bet for sunbathing. Of course, like much of the Riviera, the sand here more closely resembles gravel than actual sand, so bring a beach mat if you want to lay out.

Water Sports

Marseille's coast is perfect for exploration, with the water densely populated with marine life, and lots of natural wonders just offshore. Combine Marseille's long history with the sea with the rocky surrounding area and you'll understand why there have been many shipwrecks over the years. There are plenty of dive outfits to choose from in Marseille, and the Association Plongez Marseille (31 Ave. de la Pointe Rouge, 04/9173-4469) would be happy to point you in the right direction.

Shopping

Vieux Port stands as the center of Marseille in pretty much every way, and shopping is no exception. Marseille's specialties are no different from most other French regions, but there are many different places to choose from.

Antique hunters can choose from some rare gems at Antiques Francois-Decamp (302 rue Paradis, 04/9181-1800). If you're looking for the latest in French fashion, head towards Cours Julien or the sparkling new L'Escale Borely (Avenue Mendes-France). Regular souvenir shoppers will be satisfied at any shop along the always crowded Rue St-Fereol. Traveling with a sweet tooth? Take care of that at Puyricard (25 Rue Francis-Davso, 04/9154-2625).

Dining & Nightlife

Marseille's tremendous diversity allows for a range of tastes different from any other French city. But when you boil it all down, people still beg for bouillabaisse. And Le Miramar (12 Quai du Port, 04/9191-1040) does it better than the rest. Les Arcenaulx (25 Cours d'Estienne d'Orves, 04/9159-8040) is notable for its shellfish. Portuguese food is on the menu at Le Roi du Poulet (18 Place Notre Dame du Mont, 04/9148-8792).

As France's second largest city, Marseille has more than enough options for evening entertainment. The Opera Municipal (2 Rue Molière, 04/9155-2107) has a great schedule of performances all year long. If you would rather dance, hop on the Trolley Bus (24 Quai de Rive-Neuve, 04/9154-3045). The best option of all is to simply stroll around the Vieux Port, where you won't lack company. There are plenty of cafes that make perfect people-watching spots.