Elba
Quick Facts
Language: ItalianCurrency: Euro
Area Codes: 0565
Other Cities in this Region
Roman legend has it that Venus, the goddess of love, was walking through the Tyrrhenian Sea when she accidentally lost a precious jewel that was hanging around her neck. The stone fell into the water, and became the beautiful island of Elba.
Of course, most of Elba's fame is derived from the French emperor Napoleon's brief exile here in 1814. Over the years, Elba has come to embrace him as a sort of local anti-hero, with museums and galleries erected in his honor. Napoleon gave back as well, designing the tiny island's flag and helping to set up Elba's infrastructure.
Elba and its surrounding islands figure prominently in literary history. Victor Hugo spent part of his childhood here before growing up to write The Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Miserables, among others. Even more importantly, the island of Montecristo, the inspiration for Dumas' classic The Count of Monte Cristo, is off the coast of Elba.
Portoferraio is Elba's main port town and the place where most visitors spend the majority of their time. This is unfortunate, because many of Elba's premier attractions are elsewhere, particularly on the northern side of the island. A visit to Marina di Campo, Porto Azzurro, or Marciana Marina will acquaint you with some of Elba's hidden beauty.
Docking & Local Transportation
Cruise ships dock at the Port of Portoferraio on Elba. There is easy access to the rest of the tiny island from the port.
Ferries and hydrofoils run between Portoferraio and Piombino, which is on mainland Italy. On Elba, buses connect Portoferraio to Porto Azzuro, Capoliveri, Cavo, Rio Elba, and other cities. Taxis (0565/925-112) are also available, but make sure to negotiate your fare in advance. Bikes and mopeds are fairly easy ways to travel around the small island. Contact TWN (0565/914-666) for rental information.
Local Interests
Elba gained its fame during Napoleon's short exile here in 1814. He accomplished a lot while on Elba, designing the island's flag and helping to develop the island's infrastructure. Elba has embraced its Napoleonic association, with lots of tourist attractions devoted to him.
The Napoleon Museum can be found at his former home, Villa dei Mulini (0565/915-846). Among the highlights here are Napoleon's personal library, some correspondence he carried on while in exile, and the flag he designed, elements of which are still found on Elba's flag today.
Napoleon wasn't a man to live in only one house, of course. His summer residence, Napoleonica di San Martino (San Martino, 0565/914-688) has also been turned into a tourist attraction. The letter "N" is embroidered all over the place, but lest you think that Napoleon was vain, most of the memorabilia found here was placed after his death. Napoleon's death mask can be visited at Chisea della Misericordia, one block from Napoleonica di San Martino.
When you tire of Napoleon, visit the Museo Archeologico (Fortezza del Lingrella, 0565/917-338). Ancient boats often met their doom in the rough waters around Elba, and some of their treasures have been excavated from the bottom of the sea for display here. The Medici Fortress, built by Cosmo d'Medici of the famed Florentine family, overlooks Portoferraio.
Lastly, tours can be arranged through the APT tourist office (Calata Italia 43, 0565/914-671) for visits to the smaller islands that surround Elba. Alexander Dumas fans would be remiss to miss the chance to visit the island of Montecristo. The small spit of an island was the inspiration for Dumas famous tale of Edmond Dantes' revenge as the Count of Monte Christo. Montecristo is now a wildlife refuge. A nature hike around Monte Capanne serves as a beautiful (albeit exhausting) pastime.
Activities
Beaches and Outdoor Activities
Elba is so small that practically the entire island is on the coast. There are plenty of nice beaches for lying out and swimming. The cities of Procchio, Biodola, and Marina di Campo all feature long stretches of coastline. Chiessi's rocky coves and quiet beaches remain secluded and mostly undiscovered. Porto Azzurro is another city renowned for its beaches, but eating or shopping in the area can be pricey.
Shopping
Elba is not the best place to catch up on your shopping. The stores are few and far between, and the selection is not terribly varied. Local wines are a top seller, so be on the lookout for Aleatico and Moscato wines, which are indigenous to the area.
Dining & Nightlife
Restaurant options engulf Elba, with fine dining options in Portoferraio and surrounding areas. In Portoferraio, visit Trattoria da Lido (Salita del Falcone 2, 0565/914-650). The gnocchi, or potato dumplings, are excellent. Trattoria da Zucchetta (Piazza della Repubblica 40, 0565/915-331) is a great stop for pizza lovers. If you just want to grab a quick bite to eat, stop by Ristorante Residence (0565/968-635) for a salad, or stock up on groceries at Conad (Piazza Pietri 3, 0565/930-243).
In Rio Marina on Elba's eastern shore, there's a delightful restaurant called La Canocchia (Via Palestro 3, 0565/962-432). The specialties here are ravioli and seafood. The place packs up during the busy summer season, so call ahead and make a reservation.
As for nightlife, Porto Azzuro does offer one of the better nightclubs in Elba. Morumbi (0565/920-191) is always busy in the summer. In Marciana, Club 64 (0565/969-988) is along the beach in Procchio, with live music every night.