Athens
During ancient times, Greece served as a geographically strategic meeting place for people from Europe, Africa, and Asia. Today, the country remains as diverse and vibrant as the cultures that shaped it.
Athens emerged during the Classical Age, in the 5th century BC, as the most prominent city-state in Greece. It is located in the southernmost region of Central Greece, and is the port city where most begin their tours of the popular Greek islands. It is situated in a basin surrounded by four mountains: Mt. Hymettos to the east, Mt. Parnis and Mt. Aigaleo to the West, and Mt. Pendeli to the north. It is home to countless Archaeologicalsites, museums, and social attractions.
To Greeks, Athens is an overcrowded, expensive, and decadent place to avoid if you are the quiet, peaceful type. To tourists, however, Athens is an exciting, bustling city filled with shops, cafés, monuments, and character. Although pollution and traffic do add to the grit of the city (think New York's traffic jams and Los Angeles' air quality), the energetic tourist will find plenty of opportunities for sightseeing.
While Greeks like to ridicule Athens, 40 percent of the country's population lives here, and five million people can't be wrong. The street congestion is partially alleviated by a newly constructed subway system called the metro, but taxis are still the primary mode of transportation for visitors. And although Athens is a modern city, the history and antiquity of Greece is not entirely forgotten here. The city is home to many places that recall Greece's achievements in science, sport, architecture, and art during the Classical Age. It boasts relics from the Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods. History enthusiasts will want to visit the Natural ArchaeologicalMuseum. And no one who visits Athens should miss the city's most impressive legacy, the Acropolis and the awe-inspiring Parthenon.
Just as Athens offers plenty to do, it also offers plenty of places to unwind. Traffic jams and overcrowding can be quickly forgotten while enjoying appetizers at a local restaurant or sipping coffee at a tranquil side street café, as Athenians are also masters of food, friendly debate, discussion, and relaxation.
Docking & Local Transportation
Most cruise ships dock at Athens main harbor, Piraeus(210/452-2586). It is just southwest of central Athens, and a 15-minute ride on the metro to the central part of the city. It is a great place to catch a cab, as well.
Taxis are used to get from place to place in Athens. Tourists are encouraged to bargain with avaricious taxi drivers who sometimes offer only a flat (and more costly) rate. If that happens, you can demand the meter turned on, and if the driver will not, simply hail another cab, which will likely be cheaper.
The recently constructed metro subway system does a decent job of linking the city, but with several of the lines still under construction, you may have a bit of a hike once you have gotten off the metro. It runs mainly through the western section of Athens.
Buses and trolleys are inexpensive, but the service has been described as undependable and daunting. They can be a cheap way to get out to the suburbs of Athens if you have the time to plan a bus itinerary and are not on a deadline to arrive
Local Interests
The most famous tourist attraction in Athens is the Acropolis (210/321-0291), or the High City. It is the most stunning evidence of the golden age of ancient Greece. The Parthenon towers at the Acropolis as the most spectacular sacred shrine to ancient Greek gods and goddesses. Between 500 and 400 BC, Athens was a dizzying place of intellect and art, and this limestone protrusion stood at the center of it all, attracting local artists and philosophers, as well as those passing through, to marvel at its grandeur. Over the years, it has withstood war and various abuses, but it remains today an architectural gem. After a 1983 effort by Greek architects to restore it to its original magnificence, it is once again a powerful monument linking history to modernity.
Visit the National Archaeological Museum (210/821-7717) located at Odos Patission 44, for a wonderful lesson on the history of Greek culture as well as the ongoing processes of archaeological digs in the area. The Museum of Greek Folk Art (Kydatvineon 17, 210/322-9031) displays interesting pieces of popular art and crafts, especially from the 18th and 19th centuries.
The National Gardens (adjacent to Syntagma Square, 210/721-5019) offer a respite from the city's commotion. Once serving as the private gardens for the royal family, they are a perfectly scenic place to walk or picnic. Here you will find a pond with ducks and swans, lush grass and foliage, park benches and tables, along with a café. However, the National Gardens are only recommended during the daytime, as loiterers tend to hang out here at night.
If you are lucky enough to travel to Athens in the summer months, between June and September, you may catch the Hellenic Festival. It is an annual celebration of the arts, complete with music, drama, and dance, that boasts artists from around the world who come and perform on the slopes of the Acropolis. Buy tickets early (www.greekfestival.gr) because they sell out quickly.
Activities
Beaches and Sporting
The Apollo Coast, a string of five beaches several miles south of the city, is the most beautiful place to enjoy a day of sand and water. And if sporting is your interest, you will want to contact the Greek National Tourist Office (Odos Amerikis 2, 210/331-0561) to see if you can catch a soccer match between the vicious rivals Olympiakos and Panathanaikos (of Athens). Gambling is common here, and sports like basketball and soccer are favorite national pastimes that attract lots of action.
Shopping
Shopping is a citywide affair in Athens. From food to fashion, you'll find it all. Once there, the fun begins as you explore the diverse shops the city has to offer. You may choose to spend the morning in the commercial center of Central Athens, where you can shop the triangle by hitting the popular Omonia, Syntagma, and Monastiraki squares. Here you will find a plethora of stores, from department stores (try the well-known Lambropoulos, Eolou 99, 210/324-5811) to tiny specialty boutiques (like Nick's Corner, home of the heavy-knit sweater, Pandrossou 48, Monastiraki, 210/321-2990). You will also find various price ranges at stores in the triangle, from expensive to a bargainer's dream.
The posh Kolonaki section of Athens leaves no room for deals, as this is where you will find Versace, Lagerfeld, and Guy Laroche boutiques side by side with local couture designers like Nikos and Sofos. Try Jade (Anagnostopoulou 3, 210/364-5922) for contemporary European and American designers and Sofos (Anagnostopoulou 5, 210/361-8713) for local flavor.
Speaking of flavor, The Central Market (Odos Athinas) will entice you with vegetables, meats, wines and cheeses from all over Greece and greater Europe. If sweets are your sin, then Aristokratikon (Karagiorgi Servias 9, near Syntagma Square, 210/322-0546) will delight you with its chocolates, truffles, and glazed nuts.
Dining & Nightlife
Leisurely dining is a staple of Athenian cuisine. You are encouraged to stay long, order plenty, and enjoy Greek food to the fullest. You may find that quaint, hole-in-the-wall taverns offer a certain local charm and impressive meals, but Athens also offers its fair share of glamour, if that is what you crave. After you have shopped in the Kolonaki area, head over to L'Abreuvoir (Xenokratous 51, 210/722-9106) for international cuisine, but make reservations first, and be ready to shell out plenty for the spinach tart or fresh swordfish you are sure to enjoy. Traditional Greek food can be found at the oldest restaurant in the city's center, Ideal (Panepistimiou 46, 210/330-3000). This is a comfortable place where the fried mussels are fresh and the atmosphere is relaxed and casual.
Vassilenas (Etolikou 72, 210/461-2457) is a humble yet delicious family-run tavern where the emphasis is on quality, not glitz. Locals revere this place and tourists delight in the low cost menu where you can justify ordering many tasty dishes because the prices are so low. Seafood is recommended here.
Visit the Half Note Jazz Club (Trivonianou 17, 210/921-3310) for drinks and great live music. And when it's time to dance, be sure to pay a visit to Zoom (Kidathineon 37, 210/722-4104), open till sunrise.