Amalfi
Quick Facts
Language: ItalianCurrency: Euro
Area Codes: 089
Other Cities in this Region
Amalfi was once a major center of European culture and commerce. The mighty Republic of Amalfi thrived from the 9th Century through the 11th Century. It was home to around seventy thousand people and was an important player in the Mediterranean Sea trade routes. The maritime code created here, the Tavole Amalfitane, was adopted as the code of the entire Mediterranean for centuries. In the 1100s, Amalfi's very own Flavio Gioia invented the compass. The art of paper-making was centered here, with the Republic bringing the craft with it on journeys to the rest of Europe and the Arab world. But over time, Amalfi's influence eroded, and attacks from Pisa to the north left the town deserted and powerless. Only recently has the city reinvented itself as a tourist attraction, with people drawn here by its small-town Italian charm and the beautiful stretch of land known as the Amalfi Coast.
Amalfi is on Italy's western coast, facing the Mediterranean Sea. Nearby is Mt. Vesuvius, the volcano that buried the ancient city of Pompeii. The island of Capri is just offshore. Naples, the region's largest city, lies northwest of Amalfi.
Docking & Local Transportation
Cruise ships dock at the Port of Amalfi, along the Amalfi Coast. There is road access to the rest of the city from the port.
Buses arrive and depart from Plaza Flavio Gioia, right on the waterfront. They leave approximately every hour and connect to Salerno to the east and Sorrento to the west. Ferries and hydrofoils also depart from the dock, with trips to Capri and Positano, among other places. For exploring Amalfi itself, taxis (089/872-239) are a fairly inexpensive way to get around.
Local Interests
A good place to start is the tourist office (Corso Repubbliche Marinare 19, 089/871-107). They'll provide you with maps and other basic information to help you plan your day.
Amalfi's main point of interest is the Duomo (Piazza del Duomo, 089/871-059). The cathedral was built in the 11th Century, and is named for Saint Andrew, or Sant Andrea in Italian. Like many cathedrals, there are steep steps that take you to the top, but once you get there the view is beautiful. Of particular interest at the Duomo are the bell tower and the bronze doors. The bell tower was added on to the cathedral in the 13th Century, while the bronze doors were imported all the way from Constantinople.
To the left of the Duomo is the Cloister of Paradise, a graveyard founded in the 13th Century. There are old columns and statues still standing, along with a sarcophagus or two. The crypt of St. Andrew himself is here, but interestingly, his head lies in Patras, Greece. The pope donated his head to the city of Patras (presumably without Andrew's permission), but the rest of his body remains in Amalfi.
A walk around Amalfi is a refreshing and aerobic way to see this quaint town. As you walk up Via Genova, you'll happen upon citrus groves and gardens. Pass through the Valley of the Mills, and stop by the Museum of Paper (Via Valle dei Mulini, 328/318-86-26), which honors Amalfi's past as Italy's paper mill center.
The Civic Museum (Piazza Municipio, 089/871-066) has original copies of the Tavole Amalfitane, the maritime code drafted in Amalfi and used as the code for the entire Mediterranean Sea until the late 16th Century. There are also exhibits on Flavio Gioia, who invented the compass in the 1100s.
Activities
Beaches
Amalfi's beaches are decent at best. Most of the coast around this town is rocky, so laying out can be painful if you aren't careful. For better beaches, take a short trip to the neighboring towns of Minori or Maiori. Both towns can be reached easily by bus. Both have little industry outside of tourism, and the locals are happy to be of assistance in pointing out the best beach spots in town.
Emerald Grotto
Through a unique refraction of light, this cavern casts a green light across stalagmites and stalactites that have been forming for millions of years. Boats leave from Amalfi's dock twice an hour. Don't miss this eerie natural wonder!
Shopping
La Grotta di Mansaniello (Largo Cesareo Console 7, 089/871-929) sells amazing sculptures made from stalagmites and stalactites from the grottoes nearby.
The Amalfi Coast has long been known as a home for ceramics. In the nearby town of Vietri, you can still find authentic Amalfitani ceramics. A good place to visit is La Taverna Paradiso (Vai Diego Taiani 1, 089/212-509). If you find yourself in Positano, try Ceramica Assunta (Via C. Colombo 97, 089/875-008, www.ceramicassunta.it/prodott_eng.htm).
If you don't have time to make it out to Vietri or Positano, there are still plenty of great places to shop in Amalfi itself. La Valle Dei Mulini (Salita Chiarito 9, 089/873-288) sells a local favorite, Limoncello, a lemony liquor. And hearkening back to Amalfi's days as a paper mill town, Antonio Cavaliere (Via Fume, 089/871-954) sells beautiful high quality paper. Near the Duomo, Antichi Sapori d'Amalfi (Piazza Duomo 39, 089/872-062) sells various souvenirs for the shopper on the go.
Dining
The Hotel Santa Caterina (Via Nazionale 9, 089/871-012, www.hotelsantacaterina.it) has an excellent restaurant on the hotel grounds. The fish is particularly good here. Call ahead to find out when the buffets are for the week. For more great seafood, try Eólo (Via Panteleone Comite 3, 089/871-241). Ristorante Luna Convento (Via Panteleone Comite 33, 089/871-002) has a beautiful view to match the tasty dishes. Try to get a table outside. Al Pesce d'Oro (Via Giovanni Agustariccio, 089/831-231) has a diverse menu, with dishes ranging from pizza to seafood. Trattoria di Maria (Piazza ad Amalfi, 089/871-880) serves up pizza and Limoncello in a vivacious atmosphere.